(若大家喜歡我鏡頭下的馬拉松風景,不妨Click樂施會的標誌,資助他們的扶貧工作)

2011年4月30日星期六

保獨裁政權 唯有血腥鎮壓

《明報》4月30日由突尼斯青年去年12月自焚起,革命的火苗已燃燒了4個多月,如火燒連環船般蔓延至中東北非所有國家。上周六,也門總統薩利赫(Ali Abdullah Saleh)成為繼突尼斯的本阿里(Ben Ali)、埃及的穆巴拉克(Hosni Mubarak)後,第3個下台的領導人,也是時候做一個小總結。

曾爆發大規模反對示威的國家,有突尼斯、埃及、阿爾及利亞、摩洛哥、利比亞、利亞、巴林、也門、阿曼9個國家。摩洛哥和阿爾及利亞沒有大規模流血事件,阿曼國王Qaboos迅速宣布改革後,暫時平息了示威浪潮。

革命從來無法預測
利比亞、敍利亞、也門和巴林以武力對待示威者。在沙特阿拉伯的支持下,巴林國王血腥粉碎了民主運動;卡扎菲的武力鎮壓則引來北約與卡塔爾的介入;利亞總統巴沙爾(Bashar Assad)仍處於危險期,武力鎮壓無法平息示威浪潮;也門總統薩利赫失去軍方支持後宣布下台,換取不受起訴之赦免。

革命從來無法預測,有些你以為會成功的國家,例如利比亞,當軍人叛變、官員出走、戰機投奔異國,外界還以為卡扎菲政權樹倒猢猻散,政權變天指日可待,怎料絕大部分叛變的軍人沒有加入反政府勢力,不知跑到哪裏去,而卡扎菲的基本盤沒有動搖,革命演變成內戰,若不是西方社會介入,散兵游勇組成的反對派早已被卡扎菲擊垮。

你以為會失敗的國家,例如也門竟然可以變天,結束薩利赫32年的統治。也門是中東最貧窮的國家,超過六成婦女、三成男性是文盲,互聯網的普及率較其他中東國家低,部落的影響力仍然很大,遍遠的山區政府根本管治不了,首都薩那發生什麼事,對其他地方的影響並不大。相反在埃及,控制了開羅、阿歷山大港便等於控制全埃及,因埃及人口主要集中在幾個大城市。

據外國傳媒報道,也門人革命時也不忘食Qat(Qat是貌似西洋菜的植物,在大部分歐洲國家、中東國家、美國和加拿大都被列作毒品,主要成分是卡西酮(Cathinone)。食後會精神亢奮、自我陶醉、減少食慾、語無輪次、突然笑及上癮),或多或少反映也門人革命的決心。

況且,也門並不是中東最獨裁的國家。2006年的總統選舉,薩利赫的得票是77%,反對派候選人得票是21%(穆巴拉克2005年選舉的得票率是89%),連歐盟的選舉監察組織European Union Election Observation Mission也說,儘管選舉有重大的瑕疵,但也是公開和真正的選舉(an open and genuine contest)。

拉倒一項不得人心的惡法、推翻一個獨裁政權,除了要千萬人上街,還需要靠「田北俊」式的臨門一腳倒戈。與其說人民力量拉倒薩利赫,倒不如說是軍隊內部權力鬥爭的結果,令薩利赫無法完成任期。

某程度上,穆巴拉克和本阿里也差不多,兩人同樣失去軍隊的支持後才下台,而碰巧這三人都是西方國家在中東的盟友,而愈靠西方支持的政權,倒台的機會也愈大,若西方因輿論改變而撤回支持,政權也會隨之結束。

控制軍隊強硬對付群眾運動
相反牢牢抓緊槍桿子的政權,例如聘用僱傭兵的利比亞、引入外國勢力鎮壓的巴林、軍方高層都來自以什葉派阿拉維宗派(Alawites)的利亞,即使屠殺的人民遠較埃及也門多,獨裁者暫時仍大權在握。

中東及北非的革命固然證明民主是普世的價值,不分中東或西方,但很不幸也讓世界其他的獨裁者看到,由八九的天安門、○七的緬甸、○九的伊朗,到今天的中東都說明,要保住江山、讓獨裁政權延續下去,一定要更好地控制軍隊及強硬對付群眾運動。

但願是我太早下結論。

2011年4月28日星期四

Food for Run and Thought 35

「For me, the hardest part of an injury is watching the races go by that I had hoped to compete in. The only thing that makes it easier is thinking of how certain struggles make other accomplishments mean so much.」Dathan Ritzenhein

「Running has given me the courage to start, the determination to keep trying, and the childlike spirit to have fun along the way. Run often and run long, but never outrun your joy of running.」Julie Isphording, Marathon winner

「When you put yourself on the line in a race and expose yourself to the unknown, you learn things about yourself that are very exciting.」Doris Brown Heritage, Five-time World Cross-Country Champion

「I like to say, and I truly believe, that every run brings new experiences. You just don't know what they might be until you actually do the run. That's one of my major reasons for pushing out the front door as often as I do—the adventure of it all.」Amby Burfoot, Editor at Large, Runner's World

「Although raising three children is the best adventure of all, this phase of my life is not marked by freedom—in terms of liberties and indulgences with time. But there is freedom in running. There is liberty and indulgence with time, even 30 precious minutes, if that's all the day affords. I am reminded—even if not one single thing on my calendar reflects it—that adventure is out there, always whispering to me, calling me forward.」Kristin Armstrong, Author and runner

2011年4月25日星期一

貧富懸殊促變天 中國速推政改

《經濟日報》2月18日沒有人料到,27歲的突尼斯青年Mohamed Bouazizi自焚,在中東地區掀起民主運動的浪潮,連一直被視為穩定的埃及也爆發大規模示威,軍事強人穆巴拉克於短短的18天便下台。星星之火、可以 燎原,民主運動更燃燒至較富裕的海灣國家,巴林也爆發大規模示威,情況岌岌可危。

這一波民主浪潮由年輕人策動,透過facebook等社交網絡組織了第一次大規模示威。香港的情況固然跟埃及無法比較,埃及過半數人民是80後,年輕人失業率超過2成,國家更是長期維持緊急狀態,但埃及年輕人遇到的問題,在香港及歐美也發生,所有政府都需要處理及面對。

青年置業難 高失業率積怨氣

香港與埃及最相似的地方,是年輕人買樓置業困難。now台的「撳錢」最近熱爆,而埃及近年最受歡迎的電視遊戲節目則是al-Beit Beitak(英文繙譯是The House is Yours),每集都送出一個住宅單位,由埃及一名富商贊助,讓打算結婚的男女參加。

埃及的置業文化或跟香港有點相似,普遍認為買樓置業是結婚的條件,但首都開羅的房屋供應遠遠不及需求。開羅不乏可以開發的地皮,但大多被財團圈了以建豪 宅,中小型樓宇的供應極缺乏。埃及年輕人即使大學畢業,也難以找到足以餬口的工作(整個中東也是,自焚的青年Mohamed,就是一名做小販的大學畢業 生),樓價昂貴對他們構成極大壓力。

埃及近年的經濟增長維持5%至7%左右,沒有受到全球金融危機的衝擊,但人口增長率也高,埃及過去30年人口增加一倍至現在的8,000萬,攤薄了經濟增長的效應,而且增長的成果也無法向下流,富者愈富,但低下階層無法分享成果,生活得不到改善。

當然,埃及式的革命在香港爆發的機會極低,特首曾蔭權應該可以成為首個完成任期的特首,但香港低下階層的生活,回歸以來一直沒有改善,去年的高鐵示威浪潮,也說明香港80後的力量不容忽視。

貧富懸殊嚴重 香港超埃及

據聯合國去年09的統計,香港的堅尼系數遠高於埃及(香港是0.434、埃及是0.321),若香港政府不解決貧富懸殊、樓價急升的問題,以自由經濟為藉口繼續向地產商傾斜,也很可能造成社會危機。

中東的民主運動,對中國有更大的啟示。中國政府早已禁止互聯網討論埃及,反映中國政府的色厲內荏,擔心中東的民主浪潮延伸至中國。

由 1967年至今,埃及只有18個月(1980至81年間)沒有實施緊急狀態令,政府長期打壓反對的聲音,反對派的前總統候選人更因「莫須有」的罪名下 獄,埃及示威者的口號之一「We are all Khaled Said」,就是紀念去年中遭警察虐打至死的28歲青年Khaled。埃及前總統穆巴拉克以社會穩定、民主化讓伊斯蘭極端組織勢力坐大、國情不宜民主為藉 口,以維持政權的認受性,爭取西方國家源源不絕的軍事援助。

埃及人民給了穆巴拉克30年機會,但埃及社會及經濟發展停滯,影響力在中東日益下降,在中東人民的眼中,穆巴拉克像美國及以色列利益的代言人,多於一個中東大國的領袖。埃及人民終於受夠了,不能再讓穆巴拉克做至任期結束。

高增長難為繼 內地宜早對策

中國的情況也有相似之處,中國政府以社會穩定、經濟發展為限制民主和自由的理由,只是中國政府表現較好,低下階層、中產階級都分享一點經濟發展的成果,中國人民的生活大體上改善了。但貧富懸殊在中國日益嚴重,貪官污吏、官商勾結橫行、維權抗爭衝突日益增加。

分析家已指出,中國即將出現的人口老化問題,將令經濟無法長期高增長。若中國的經濟發展停滯了,或中國的增長令富者愈富、低下階層無法分享成果、大學生找不到工作,屆時中國的威權式統治也失去認受性,若中國政府遲遲不落實政治改革,爆發埃及式的革命恐怕是遲早的事。

2011年4月24日星期日

自問自答

每天可以不吃飯,但一定不能錯每天的《FT》,惜羞恥是看了這麼多英文報紙、英文書,還是寫不出好的英文。人生最後悔,莫過於小時不努力,學不好英文。

英國報紙的周末版,無論《FT》、《Observer》還是《Sunday Times》都有些短打式的人物訪問。2月25日訪問了Halie Gebrselassie,試試用同一組問題問自己:

What was your earliest ambition?


I wanted to be a photographer, traveling around the world.

Public school or state school? University or straight into work?


I have no idea. A university degree is a must nowaday?

Who is your mentor?

I don't have a mentor in real life. If I really need to give a name, maybe 大前研一 is, his book《想做的事就去做》has a great impact on me.

How physically fit are you?

Fitter than most people, but not fit enough to run a sub 4 marathon.

Ambition or talent: which matters more to success?

Talent. I always have ambition but I am not that successful. Of course, discipline and passion are most important

Have you ever taken an IQ test?

Yes. Online IQ test, if my memory is correct, my mark is about 110. I am not a smart guy.

How politically committed are you?

I am a bystander, I am interested in understaind politics, but I have no interest in participating this game.

Do you consider your carbon footprint?

Sorry. I like traveling too much. It is painful for me not to travel for more than three months.

What would you like to own that you don’t currently possess?

More money, to fulfil my dream, running all races in this planet.

Do you have more than one home?

1/3? I share with my father and brother.

What’s your biggest extravagance?

To eat Hagendaz ice-cream in Hong Kong. In UK, 473ml just cost 2.07 pounds! HK, at least HK$50, more than a double!

In what place are you happiest?

With my dear, Miss S.

What ambitions do you still have
?

To finish at least 100 marathon races. Run at least a race in every country. To be a correspondent in the Middle East.

What drives you on?

You can only live once. When I become an old man, I can tell myself, I have had a good life and I didn't waste my life.

What is the greatest achievement of your life so far?

Have Ms. S to be my wife.

What has been your greatest disappointment?

I cannot have a job/career related to the Middle East/Marathon.

If your 20-year-old self could see you now, what would he think?

I am a lucky man! My life is more interesting than many.

If you lost everything tomorrow, what would you do?

Given that I can still run, my wife is still here. It is not a big deal.

Do you believe in assisted suicide?

Hard to say, as I believe in God, but I understand why people want to do it.

Do you believe in an afterlife?

In heaven?

If you had to rate your satisfaction with your life so far, out of 10, what would you score?

8.

Food for Run and Thought 34

「Do the work. Do the analysis. But feel your run. Feel your race. Feel the joy that is running.」Kara Goucher, American long-distance runner

「We runners are all a little nutty, but we're good people who just want to enjoy our healthy, primitive challenge. Others may not understand running, but we do, and we cherish it. That's our only message.」John J. Kelley, Olympic marathoner

「 If you set a goal for yourself and are able to achieve it, you have won your race. Your goal can be to come in first, to improve your performance, or just finish the race. It's up to you.」Dave Scott, U.S. Triathlete

「I've learned that finishing a marathon isn't just an athletic achievement. It's a state of mind; a state of mind that says anything is possible.」John Hanc, running writer

「In the midst of regular life, running is the touchstone that breathes adventure into my soul. I can feel the trail under my feet, the press of the hill, the gallop of the track, the burn of my lungs, the stir of wonder and possibility. Running reminds me that there is more to me than what is readily apparent much of the time. I don't always need to see it, but oh how I need to know it's there. Like having an alter ego, or a super-cool super-hero identity.」Kristin Armstrong, Author and runner

2011年4月19日星期二

Food for Run and Thought 33


「I look at running as meditation. It allows me to decompress, download, and get rid of a lot of negative stuff. That's my secret. I go inside myself.」Jeff Corwin, American animal and nature conservationist

「There's no cell phone, there's no way for anyone to get in contact with me, and I really, really like that. We don't have enough of that in our world anymore. Whether I'm out doing the mountains and I've got the dogs with me, or if I'm by myself, it's a great way to shut out our crazy world and business for an hour or whatever. That's probably my favorite thing about it.」Scott Bakula, Golden Globe-winning actor

「When I first started doing races, I didn't understand why people did them. I thought it was boring. But give it a try. If you're new to the sport, or maybe even an infrequent runner, try it. Once you do it and finish a race, there's such a feeling of self-accomplishment—that's really been one thing I've taken away from doing running events. Because it's just you, and you have just yourself to credit for doing what you did. It's always a great feeling afterward, because you know you did it all yourself.」Mike Bettes, Meteorologist, The Weather Channel

「I have always liked running, so it wasn't particularly difficult to make it a habit. All you need is a pair of running shoes and you can do it anywhere. It does not require anybody to do it with, and so I found the sport perfectly fits me as a person who tends to be independent and individualistic.」Haruki Murakami, author

「It seemed like an impossible thing, and as an actor, it's a funny thing. You spend your whole life pretending. Completing a marathon was the first time in my adult life I had done something that had a huge physical attachment to it. It required everything, not just my imagination, and that connection of your body and your imagination working together is, I think, why people go out in the morning and get their 40 minutes in.」Anthony Edwards, actor

2011年4月17日星期日

Food for Run and Thought 32


「I thought about how many preconceived prejudices would crumble when I trotted right along for 26 miles.」Bobbi Gibb, first woman to finish the Boston Marathon, 1966

「Nobody cares if you're not a good dancer. Just get up and dance. The same holds true for racing. Whether first or last, we all cross that same finish line. Just get out there and run.」Dean Karnazes, Ultrarunner and best-selling author

「It's the one thing that's mine. My runs everyday are my thing. It's my therapy, my hour to myself. Nobody can really take it away from me... It's such a huge part of me. I love to say that I'm a runner.」Summer Sanders, Olympic gold-medalist in swimming

「I just think running makes me feel more disciplined. It makes me feel more committed, to not only my job, but to life. It makes me feel I'm doing all I can do to be as good as I can be.」Michael Waltrip, Race car driver

「The great thing about running is that somebody like me can go out there and actually achieve things. Particularly with this wonderful system of community races where you can enter and do as well as you can despite all that. I can work at it, I can apply myself, I can even learn stuff, my training methods and really achieve something.」Peter Sagal, Marathoner and host of NPR's "Wait, Wait...Don't Tell Me!"

2011年4月16日星期六

Food for Run and Thought 31

「Life is short...running makes it seem longer.」Baron Hansen

「The gun goes off and everything changes...the world changes...and nothing else really matters.」Patti Sue Plummer

「Man imposes his own limitations, don't set any.」Anthony Bailey

「Now if you are going to win any battle you have to do one thing. You have to make the mind run the body. Never let the body tell the mind what to do. The body will always give up. It is always tired morning, noon, and night. But the body is never tired if the mind is not tired. When you were younger the mind could make you dance all night, and the body was never tired...You've always got to make the mind take over and keep going.」George S. Patton, U.S. Army General and 1912 Olympian

「Coming off the last turn, my thoughts changed from 'One more try, one more try, one more try...' to 'I can win! I can win! I can win!」Billy Mills, Olympic gold medalist

2011年4月12日星期二

Food for Run and Thought 30


「You can never be sure. That's what makes the marathon both fearsome and fascinating. The deeper you go into the unknown, the more uncertain you become. But then you finish. And you wonder later, 'How did I do that?' This question compels you to keep making the journey from the usual to the magical.」Joe Henderson, American runner, running coach, and writer

「Running hills breaks up your rhythm and forces your muscles to adapt to new stresses. The result? You become stronger.」Eamonn Coghlan, Irish athlete and 3-time Olympian

「I will always listen to my coaches. But first I listen to my body. If what they tell me suits my body, great. If my body doesn't feel good with what they say, then always my body comes first.」Haile Gebreselassie

「I sometimes think that running has given me a glimpse of the greatest freedom a man can ever know, because it results in the simultaneous liberation of both body and mind.」Sir Roger Bannister, English former athlete best known for running the first recorded mile in less than 4 minutes

「Running is not, as it so often seems, only about what you did in your last race or about how many miles you ran last week. It is, in a much more important way, about community, about appreciating all the miles run by other runners, too.」Richard O'Brien, runner

Food for Run and Thought 29


「Success means having the courage, the determination, and the will to become the person you believe you were meant to be.」George Sheehan

「Running is about finding your inner peace, and so is a life well lived.」Dean Karnazes, Ultrarunner and best-selling author

「Running! If there's any activity happier, more exhilarating, more nourishing to the imagination, I can't think what it might be.」Joyce Carol Oates, American author

「I've learned that finishing a marathon isn't just an athletic achievement. It's a state of mind; a state of mind that says anything is possible.」John Hanc, running writer

「Running is not, as it so often seems, only about what you did in your last race or about how many miles you ran last week. It is, in a much more important way, about community, about appreciating all the miles run by other runners, too.」Richard O'Brien, runner

2011年4月11日星期一

也門.《JET》四月號



(也門的遊記,終於有機會詳細寫了)也門?若不是中東近期的民主浪潮,恐怕沒有多少人知道也門在那裡,只有愛冒險及愛刺激的旅人,有興趣掀開這神秘國度之面紗。恐怖襲擊的危險把大部份旅客趕跑了,但保留了也門淳樸的民風,走在首都薩那(Sana’a)古城的街頭,你會驚訝世上竟然有些地方,可以沒有現代化的痕跡,也門男士的身份像徵仍是腰前掛的那一把小刀。

位於阿拉伯半島最南端的也門,是中東最貧窮的國家,但他們曾擁有顯赫的文明,也門的部落控制了古代的乳香貿易。很多聖經故事源自也門,相傳挪亞方舟就是在也門的阿丁港(Aden)興建,薩那是挪亞的兒子閃(Sam)於洪水過後建立的城市,也門是《舊約聖經》示巴女王的國度,女王的皇宮遺址在也門中部的Marib一帶。

大部份人未必知道,今天我們喝的摩卡咖啡(Mocha)也是源自也門。摩卡是也門西端紅海沿岸的一個港口,經這港口出口的咖啡也被稱為摩卡。可惜也門今天不再出出產咖啡了,也門大部份耕地都拿去種一種名為Qat、一種類似煙草的植物。

經過十多小時的飛行和轉機,終於降落也門的首都薩那(Sanaa)。首都機場破破落落,但沒有那種品流複雜的混亂、沒有蟻纏般的士司機、沒有人問你要否找換貨幣、也沒有人盯著你的財物和皮包,但簡陋的首都機場,連服務檯詢問處也沒有像樣的地圖提供,踏上的士後,或許你會質疑自己:「幹嗎坐花時間來這個鬼地方?」

請不要心急,當你隱約看到薩那古城的城牆在前方,很快你會明白你沒有來錯,穿過這道如積木般趣緻的古城門,讓你時光倒流,回到古代的伊斯蘭社會。

薩那古城的城牆大部份已毀了,只有南端的城門保存完整。城市建築相當特別,這些只有四、五層的屋子由泥和磚所建,四四方方的建築、排列亂中有序,牆外塗上厚厚的紅、白油漆,粗獷的質感如梵高的向日葵、如高更筆下的大溪地一樣。不少建築配上傳統的彩色破璃窗,晚上射出不同顏色的光芒。

數百年、千多年歷史的清真寺在古城內比比皆是。整個城市輪廓就是由這些紅泥磚的小房子勾劃,一邊留心慢慢欣賞,看看每一幢泥建築的設計、顏色及質感有甚麼不同,如身處在萬花筒般,欣賞這種原始、沒有經過現代加工、沒有任何堆砌的古樸,一邊在彎彎曲曲的小街踱步,已可以消磨半天。

古城的街道錯綜複雜,這裡沒有招牌顯示街名,絕大部份商店連名字也沒有,聽當地人說,大家都是用老闆的名字,或店鋪的位置稱呼這些商店,他們沒有店鋪名字概念的。不去也門,還不知道原來店名、字號和商標是近代社會才衍生的產物呢!

古城中心延至南端城門的舊市集,是整個古城的中心,各式各樣的香料、珠寶、手工藝品都可以找得到。也門的旅遊業仍未開發,店鋪老闆仍未沾染落地還錢、開天殺價的銅臭味,第一口價錢雖然略貴,但一點也不算離譜,花些少時間和唇舌,不難買到心頭好。

薩那的物價便宜,十元港幣左右,已可以在路旁的餐廳吃飽了,但不要忘記問他們取餐具,因為也門人都是用手吃飯。也門最特別的食物叫Saltah,賣Saltah的餐廳很容易辨認,看看有沒有廚師站在門口前煲一大鍋湯,不懂阿拉伯文點菜也不要緊,因為這裡只賣一種食物。

很快,侍應遞上兩個像活火山口一樣的圓罉,氣泡不斷在冒。一罉由由薯仔、菜及蛋煮成、另一罉有羊肉及黏稠的肉汁,加上一點青芥。你可以把麵包撕成一小塊,然後放進在兩盤活火山裡,裹上火辣辣的糊及羊肉。(小心不要燙到手)

但最震撼還是街邊的新鮮棗子檔。絕大部份的也門人不懂英語,我只是遞了一美元給小販,他拿了個黑色膠袋,用手掌及手肘,一大把、一大把地把棗子抓進袋子,直至塞滿膠袋!這袋沉甸甸、又甜又新鮮的棗子,讓我足足吃了五天,誠實的小販一點也不會佔遊客便宜。

不止是小販,也門人普遍友善熱情,當每一位外國人都是遠道前來的客人。無論到甚麼餐廳,總有些人把他們的飯菜遞上跟你分享!在長途車上,旁邊的老伯伯即使不會說英語,也會跟你點頭微笑,他下車時還會摘一點自己葡萄和香蕉,硬塞進我的背包!

薩那人習慣在街上辦囍宴,在空地上搭一個大型帳幕,賓客在帳幕外跳舞,礙於傳統的風俗,由父母安排的盲婚啞嫁仍是相當盛行,男女雙方嫁娶前甚至都不能碰面,男性和女性各自在不同的場所慶祝。好奇走進帳幕內看看,沒有人懷疑你在這裡幹甚麼,他們甚至邀請你到台上跟新郎哥一起坐,分享婚宴的喜悅。

雖然外國常常警告國民不要前往也門,其實發生綁架及恐怖襲擊的地方,都在偏遠的山區,只要你不路經美英兩國的大使館門口,薩那一點也不危險。我敢肯定,薩那街頭遇到劫的機會肯定比紐約低,在這個傳統的伊斯蘭社會,偷東西可是嚴重罪行呢!也門吃東西拉肚子的機會不會比印度高,天天在館子吃沙律也沒有肚子疼。

但這個美麗的國度,最近的政局倒令人擔心。也門的大部份收入來自石油,但也門油田生產的高峰期已過,未來的經濟何去何從?沒有人知道。突尼斯爆發苿莉花革命的震盪,在任超過三十年的總統薩利赫(Ali Abdullah Saleh)的權力被挑戰,近月來不斷爆發示威,要求薩利赫早日下台。

只希望,這個國家能安然度過危機。